We left the surfboards back on shore, we felt like bodyboarding. I paddle up a wave and make it over as it crashes down on my friend, who didnt make it over fast enough. By the time he surfaces the next wave is already looming down on top of us. I padddle, and along with my brother, catch it.
We have a very, very stupid game we play occasionally. Wave wars. If two or more people catch a wave on bodyboards you do the only logical competitive thing left to do. You try to get the other person off the wave in the most violent manner you possibly can. I turn towards my brother and my brother starts turning towards me. I'm on the right side, so I'm going to have to punch and/or grab him with my left. Disadvantage D:, I try to get him in a headlock then flip his board. What happens next can only be described as absouloutly retarded. I grab his head and try to slam him off the board. After a few seconds of struggle I succeed, but when he goes down sideways he pushes the board, making it fly up straight in my face.
Foam tastes like shit.
We swim out to catch the next set of waves. About ten minutes and a few waves later, I manage to screw up. A pretty big wave is looming over me and I'm paddaling to catch it, I look back and notice that I'm a bit too far forward. Oh shit. As I go up the wave I try to turn out of it, but it's too late. The wave crashes right on me.
Now, if you've never had a wave crash on you, count yourself lucky. I was immediatly sent rolling through the water, getting pushed along and span by the wave for the first few seconds. Then the wave fully broke, and I was being dragged along by my board about two feet underwater. I pulled at the rope and finally managed to stop myself. I was nearly out of air after I had had some knocked out of me when I hit a rock when I was in the roll so I went up to the sky as fast as I could. Water really is a different world from the air. You can feel the difference almost before you break the surface.
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